{"title":"Special sealant — SONAX","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-plastic-rubber-kunststoffversiegelung","title":"PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" Plastic+Rubber plastic coating","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBring faded unpainted plastic and tyres back to life for good with SONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber do? A ceramic long-term coating on a Si-carbon base for unpainted plastic parts and rubber — it brings the colour back to faded surfaces and protects against UV, weathering and dirt for up to 24 months.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFaded plastic trim, bumpers gone grey and dull wheel-arch liners are the most common visual flaw on otherwise well-kept cars — even when the paint is flawless. Ordinary plastic dressings mask the problem for a few days, then wash straight off at the next clean. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e takes a fundamentally different route: instead of a temporary dressing, it lays down a ceramic protective layer on a silicon-carbon base that bonds chemically with the plastic, brings back the original colour and protects the surface against UV, moisture and dirt for up to 24 months.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVisible colour revival on faded plastic.\u003c\/strong\u003e The coating sinks into the porous surface of weathered plastic and restores the original deep black — not as a surface film, but as a chemically bonded layer. On badly faded parts the before-and-after difference jumps out at first glance. The revival lasts far longer than oil-based dressings, because the Si-carbon layer doesn't wash away.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e24 months of protection against UV and weathering.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ceramic layer forms a barrier against UV light — the main culprit behind fading plastic. At the same time the surface strongly repels water and dirt, which makes cleaning easier and stops grime from clinging. The up-to-24-month durability is realistic on cars washed regularly with a pH-neutral shampoo.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA flexible coating — good for tyres too.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike rigid ceramic coatings for paint, the Plastic+Rubber formula is deliberately flexible. That matters for rubber parts and tyres, which flex as you drive. The coating moves with them without cracking or flaking — something most plastic coatings can't do, and exactly what qualifies this one for tyre care.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before you start, mask off the neighbouring paint with painter's tape. The coating belongs on unpainted plastic, but on clear coat it can leave ugly streaks that are a pain to remove. Work in small sections of 20 cm at most and, after three to five minutes of dwell time, wipe down straight away with a clean microfibre cloth. That's how you avoid excess and get an even result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePlastic coating with Si-carbon technology — why ceramic works on plastic\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e coating uses the same Si-carbon base technology SONAX developed for its paint coatings — but in an adapted formula tuned to the particular nature of unpainted plastic and rubber. Plastic parts on the exterior of a car are typically made of polypropylene (PP) or thermoplastic elastomers (TPE), both porous and UV-sensitive. The coating turns that very porosity to its advantage: it works into the surface structure and builds a silicon-carbon matrix there that protects the plastic from the inside out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key difference from classic silicone-oil dressings: silicone oils sit on the surface as a film and give a short-lived shine, but wash off at the next clean or in the rain. The Si-carbon coating, by contrast, forms a chemical bond that stands up to alkaline cleaners and mechanical stress alike. That's why SONAX explicitly recommends pH-neutral shampoos after coating, such as SONAX GlanzShampoo or ActiFoam — not because the coating is delicate, but because alkaline cleaners cut its lifespan short for no reason.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne common misunderstanding: the coating doesn't make plastic \"glossy\" in the high-shine paint sense. It restores the factory satin sheen that new plastic parts have — a rich, deep tone without a greasy oil film. If you want a loud wet-look on your plastic, you're better off with a plastic dressing. But if you want to lock in the original condition for the long haul, the CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber is the right call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe flexibility of the formula deserves a special mention: conventional ceramic coatings for paint are hard and rigid once cured — no problem on a solid base like clear coat. Plastic parts, and tyres especially, flex on every drive, with temperature swings and under load. A rigid coating would crack and flake here within a few weeks. So SONAX deliberately built the Si-carbon formula for Plastic+Rubber to stay elastic: the cross-link structure allows micro-movement without the protective layer cracking. That's the technical reason a separate coating for plastic is needed, and why you shouldn't just lay your paint coating onto the trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to apply plastic coating properly — prep, application and curing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the \u003cstrong\u003eplastic coating\u003c\/strong\u003e correctly is what decides the durability and the look. The process takes more care than a simple plastic dressing, but in return it delivers results that last 20 to 30 times longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrep\u003c\/strong\u003e starts with a thorough car wash. After that, the plastic parts you're treating have to be degreased with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — this step isn't optional. Old silicone residue from previous plastic dressings stops the coating from bonding properly. Wipe every surface with a clean microfibre cloth and Prepare until the cloth shows no more residue. The surface has to be absolutely clean, dry and grease-free.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003eapplication\u003c\/strong\u003e, use the foam applicator pads supplied. Put a few drops of the coating on the soft side of the pad and spread it thin and even across the plastic surface in small sections. Work methodically — say the left trim first, then the right, then the bumper. After three to five minutes of dwell time, wipe off any excess product with a clean, dry microfibre cloth. Don't wait too long: once the coating dries on, it's hard to get off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCuring\u003c\/strong\u003e needs at least six hours in a dry environment — twelve hours is better for the chemical reaction to finish. During that time the car mustn't get wet, and the treated surfaces mustn't be touched. So plan the job so the car can sit in a garage or hall overnight. Once fully cured, the coating is car-wash-proof and develops its full water and dirt repellency. A good sign of a successful cure: spray water on the treated surface and it should bead off in clean drops rather than form a film. You can use this beading effect as a quality check after the curing time — if there's no beading, the coating may have gone on too thin, or the prep wasn't good enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe set includes four applicator pads — enough for a whole car, plastic parts and tyres included. On big SUVs or cars with a lot of plastic add-ons, a second set can make sense. The 50 ml of coating fluid goes a very long way — with correct, thin application you'll usually have some left over for a second pass or a touch-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFaded trim and tyre care — ideal use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e does its best work on two surfaces: badly faded plastic trim and tyres.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003etrim and bumpers\u003c\/strong\u003e the effect is most dramatic when the plastic has already faded noticeably. The coating brings back the rich black and locks it in for up to two years. On older cars or used cars that have stood outside for a long time, a plastic coating can take years off the car's overall look. In a detailing business this is a popular upsell: the plastic revival is visible to the naked eye and instantly obvious to the customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003etyres\u003c\/strong\u003e, the coating offers an interesting alternative to ordinary tyre dressings. Instead of reapplying after every wash, the ceramic layer holds for several months. The tyre gets a subtle satin sheen without the typical wet-look of cheap tyre dressings. You do have to be honest here, though: on tyres the durability is shorter than on plastic trim, because the mechanical load from road contact and flexing is higher. Count on three to six months rather than 24. Still far more than any spray dressing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe coating also does well on wheel-arch liners, unpainted mirror caps, plastic door handles and wiper arms. It isn't suited to already-painted plastic parts (those belong to the paint workflow) or to rubber seals around the doors — there, plasticiser-rich seal dressings are the better choice, because seals need to stay flexible and the coating adds nothing over a good rubber dressing here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing many people underrate: the coating's effect is cumulative. Lay down a second layer after 18 to 24 months and you boost the UV protection and deepen the colour revival once more. On cars whose plastic has already aged and gone porous, the first layer can't seal the full depth of the surface. The second layer closes the remaining pores and gives an even richer, more even black. In professional detailing it's even worth applying two layers straight away on badly weathered parts, with six hours of curing between them — the result clearly beats a single thick coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePlastic coating compared — ceramic coating vs. silicone-oil dressing vs. plastic dressing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn plastic care there are three basic approaches: ceramic coatings like the CC Plastic+Rubber, silicone-oil dressings and water-based plastic dressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-oil dressings\u003c\/strong\u003e like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-gummipfleger-gummipflege-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GummiPfleger\u003c\/a\u003e are the fastest, cheapest option. Apply, let it dwell, done. The downside: the effect lasts two weeks at most and the dressing partly washes off at every clean. For customers who top up their plastic at every wash, that's fine. For detailing businesses that have to deliver a lasting result, it isn't.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater-based dressings\u003c\/strong\u003e give a richer shine than silicone oils and last a bit longer — typically three to six weeks. They're the go-to in the show-and-shine world, where maximum visual impact is what counts. The durability stays limited, though.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e plays in a different league: 24 months instead of 24 days. The price per application is higher, but spread across the lifespan the coating is the most economical solution. For the home user who'd rather treat their plastic twice a year than at every wash, the coating is the most convenient option. For the detailing business it's the most professional — because the customer comes back twelve months later and the trim is still black.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother difference that shows up day-to-day: how dirt clings. Silicone-oil dressings tend to pull dust and pollen in like a magnet — the oil film acts like flypaper. Surfaces coated with Si-carbon technology, by contrast, are anti-stick: dirt clings far worse and gets washed away at the next clean, or even by rain. In practice that means the plastic parts stay much cleaner between washes — an effect that jumps out straight away on light-coloured cars with black plastic add-ons.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars washed daily — rental cars, company cars or taxis — the long-term angle of the coating really matters. Here an ordinary plastic dressing would literally get washed off every day. The ceramic coating, on the other hand, stands up to the mechanical stress of frequent washing and still holds for six to twelve months even under those extreme conditions. For fleet managers who have to guarantee a consistent look without daily upkeep, that's a serious advantage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying plastic coating — who the CC Plastic+Rubber is worth it for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e is aimed at detailing pros and demanding home users who want to take their plastic care up a level. It makes the most sense on cars with large unpainted plastic areas — SUVs, off-roaders, commercial vehicles and older saloons with black bumpers get the most out of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the \u003cstrong\u003eprofessional detailing business\u003c\/strong\u003e the coating is an excellent companion to paint protection. If you seal the paint with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-one-paint-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating CC One\u003c\/a\u003e, don't leave the plastic out — faded trim next to freshly coated paint stands out all the more. The CC Plastic+Rubber rounds out the whole-car protection and delivers a consistent result across every surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003ehome users\u003c\/strong\u003e, the coating pays off from the second year of use: instead of applying a plastic dressing every two weeks, you treat the parts once and you're set for 24 months. The set with 50 ml and four applicator pads is sized for a whole car. Plan the first application for a day with stable weather and access to a garage — the twelve hours of curing without moisture are the single most important condition for a long-lasting result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more practical note on care after coating: in the first few weeks, keep insect removers and alkaline pre-cleaners off the coated plastic. For routine washing, use pH-neutral shampoos like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-reinigungsschaum\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ActiFoam Energy\u003c\/a\u003e — it's pH-neutral and won't attack the ceramic layer. For stubborn dirt on the plastic, a soft microfibre cloth with warm water is enough. The coating's hydrophobic nature means most grime just runs off during a normal wash — you'll notice the coated parts need far less attention at wash time than they used to. And that, in the end, is the coating's biggest day-to-day win: less upkeep for a better result.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"50ml + 4x applicator pads","offer_id":53520119333199,"sku":"D1-SNX-2410000","price":40.06,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-plastic-rubber-kunststoffversiegelung_50ml.png?v=1730647085"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-headlightcoating-scheinwerferversiegelung","title":"PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" HeadlightCoating Headlight Sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003eKeep plastic headlights from yellowing for good with SONAX CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating do? It's a long-life ceramic sealant on a silicon-carbon base that protects plastic headlights from UV yellowing and fading for up to 12 months — car-wash-proof and tested by OSRAM.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePlastic headlights are standard on modern cars — and they share one problem: after a year or two the surface starts to yellow under UV, turns milky and loses its clarity. That doesn't just look neglected, it noticeably cuts the light output too. Polishing helps for a while, but without a follow-up layer of protection the haze comes back within a few weeks. That's exactly where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in — a long-life ceramic sealant on a silicon-carbon base that forms a UV-resistant protective layer after polishing and keeps the clear effect for up to 12 months.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLong-life UV protection for up to a year.\u003c\/strong\u003e The silicon-carbon layer absorbs and reflects UV rays before they can attack the polycarbonate plastic underneath. Instead of polishing again and again, you lay the coating down once and you're set for the whole season. OSRAM has confirmed how well this UV protection works — independent proof you rarely find in the coating segment.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCar-wash-proof and weather-resistant.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike spray sealants or waxes that get stripped off at the next wash, the HeadlightCoating stands up to the mechanical and chemical hits a car wash dishes out. The ceramic layer is far harder than organic sealants and shrugs off the alkaline cleaners used in professional wash tunnels too.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSingle-dose portions for precise dosing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The product ships in 10 portioned 5 ml sachets — one sachet covers both headlights on a car. That kills off dosing errors and wasted material. All told, a set gives you 20 applications, which is a number a detailing business can actually plan around.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The coating only shows its full strength on a perfectly prepped surface. Polish the headlight first with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e, then clean the area with isopropanol, and only lay the coating down on a fully degreased, dry headlight. And keep an eye on the weather — the four hours of curing time without moisture aren't optional, they make or break how long it lasts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHeadlight sealant with Si-Carbon technology — how the coating works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e sealant is built on the same Si-Carbon technology SONAX uses in its paint coatings — tuned to the specific demands of polycarbonate headlights. As you apply it, the silicon-carbon compound reacts with the humidity in the air and forms a glass-like, transparent layer that bonds chemically with the plastic surface. That layer is far harder than the plastic underneath and acts as a physical barrier against UV, oxidation and chemical attack.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference from simple plastic dressings or spray sealants is fundamental: where those products just sit on the surface and get stripped off at the next wash, the HeadlightCoating forms a semi-permanent bond. A lifespan of up to 12 months is realistic, provided the prep is right — on a poorly prepped headlight that's still dirty or greasy the coating can't grip properly and flakes off far sooner. Prep is the deciding factor here, not the coating itself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth getting straight: the HeadlightCoating is no miracle cure that makes an already badly yellowed headlight clear again. It's a protective product that locks in the condition after a restoration. If you've got a milky, yellowed headlight, you first have to strip the damaged top layer with a headlight polish and bring the clarity back. Only then does the coating make sense — but then it really does the job, because it protects the freshly exposed, clear surface from going off again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing a lot of people miss: ambient temperature and humidity affect the cure directly. The sweet spot is between 15 and 25 °C at medium humidity (40–60 %). When humidity is too low (under 30 %, typical in heated workshops in winter) the cross-linking slows down a lot — the coating then needs far longer than four hours to reach its final hardness. When it's too high (over 80 %) you can get hazing. Day-to-day that means: in summer, apply in the morning or evening; in winter, air the workshop briefly and only then coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying the headlight coating — step by step to a professional seal\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the \u003cstrong\u003eheadlight sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e takes care, but it's doable for ambitious hobby detailers too. The process splits into prep, application and curing:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStart with \u003cstrong\u003eprep\u003c\/strong\u003e: clean the headlight thoroughly of bug splatter, road grime and grease. If the headlight shows haze or yellowing, polish it first with a suitable headlight polish like the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish — machine work with a small polishing pad on a dual-action machine gets you the best results. Then wipe the whole surface down with a microfibre cloth soaked in isopropanol to pull off every polish residue and grease trace. The headlight has to be dry and residue-free.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the \u003cstrong\u003eapplication\u003c\/strong\u003e, tear open a 5 ml sachet and put the contents on a clean SONAX PolierVliesTuch. Spread the coating thinly in even, overlapping passes across the whole headlight surface. One sachet covers both headlights on a car — the product goes a very long way, so don't lay too much in one spot. Wipe off any excess coating right away with a dry SONAX MicrofaserTuch before it dries on. Dried-on residue is hard to get off and leaves uneven patches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003ecure\u003c\/strong\u003e is the most critical step: the car must not touch water for at least four hours. In that time the silicon-carbon layer cross-links and builds its final hardness. The first car wash should happen a week later at the earliest, so the coating can build its full chemical resistance. Ideally apply the coating in a garage or covered hall — not in rain, high humidity or direct sun on hot headlights.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake day-to-day: laying on too much product at once. The coating is meant to be ultra-thin — visible puddles or run marks point to overdosing and lead to an uneven cure. When you put the sachet contents onto the PolierVliesTuch, work them into the cloth first before you touch the headlight. That way you avoid concentration differences and get an even film thickness. If you notice a spot has gone on too thick during application, take it off straight away with a dry microfibre cloth and even the material back out. Once it's dried on, the only fix left is polishing it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRestoring yellowed headlights — when the HeadlightCoating shows its full strength\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe classic use case for the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e is the combination of headlight restoration and a follow-up seal. In professional detailing this combo is standard fare: first the yellowed headlight is wet-sanded with stepped abrasives (P1500 to P3000) and then machine-polished until the surface is crystal clear again. Then comes the coating as long-term protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithout that protection the yellowing typically comes back within three to six months — because polishing strips off the factory UV layer the manufacturer applied during production. The HeadlightCoating replaces that factory layer and gives the headlight its UV resistance back. That's the reason polishing on its own is no lasting fix: you remove the damaged protective layer along with the haze, but without new protection the cycle starts over. In detailing businesses we see it day-to-day: customers come back every few months because their headlights have gone milky again — and that's even though the polish was spot-on last time. The missing seal after polishing is almost always the cause.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a professional workflow it pays to offer headlight restoration as its own package: wet sanding with P1500 and P3000, machine polishing with the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish, degreasing with isopropanol and finally the CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating. That full process takes about 20 to 30 minutes per headlight and can be marketed as an add-on to a detail. The material cost is small — the biggest cost factor is labour time, not the product itself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn new cars or freshly polished vehicles the coating can make sense as a preventive step too — especially on cars that often sit outdoors and take a lot of UV. If you live in southern Germany, Austria or Switzerland and can't park your car in a garage, you'll notice the difference after one summer: coated headlights stay clear, untreated ones show the first signs of haze.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe product hits its limits with headlights whose yellowing comes from the inside — say from moisture that's worked its way in or off-gassing from the bulbs. The coating only protects the outside. If a headlight stays cloudy despite an exterior restoration, the problem is on the inside, and the only fix here is a replacement or a teardown with interior cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother important point: the HeadlightCoating isn't suited to glass headlights, the kind fitted to some older cars and certain premium models. Glass headlights don't yellow from UV — their issue is more mechanical wear from stone chips. So before you use the product, check whether your car actually has polycarbonate headlights. On the vast majority of cars from model year 2000 on it does, but on classics and some European sports cars you'll still find glass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHeadlight sealant comparison — ceramic coating vs. clear coat vs. film\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the ceramic coating there are two other common ways to give polished headlights lasting protection: clear-coat spray sealing and transparent protective film (PPF).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClear coat\u003c\/strong\u003e in spray cans offers robust, durable protection and can last several years when applied correctly. The downside: the application calls for masking, even spraying and a dust-free environment. Runs and orange peel are common slip-ups. On top of that, clear coat isn't reversible — if it goes on unevenly, the whole lot has to be sanded off. For high-throughput professional use, clear coat is too much work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePPF film\u003c\/strong\u003e (Paint Protection Film) offers the best mechanical protection and a lifespan of several years. That said, wrapping headlights is demanding, calls for special cut patterns and professional handling. The cost per headlight sits well above the coating — for customers on a tight budget or on lower-value cars, film is often overkill.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX HeadlightCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e sets itself up as the practical middle ground: easier than clear coat, cheaper than film, with a lifespan of up to 12 months that's plenty for a yearly refresh. For detailing businesses the single-dose portions mean predictable material use — one sachet per car, no mixing, no offcuts. For the end customer the application is straightforward enough to do yourself after a polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that stands out in a head-to-head: clear coat and film are methods you do right once and then forget for years. The ceramic coating, on the other hand, needs a yearly refresh — which sounds like a downside at first, but has the upside that you inspect the headlight each time and catch small bits of damage early. On top of that, reapplying takes five minutes and needs no fresh sanding, as long as the surface is still intact. In a professional setting you can market that as a recurring service — a yearly headlight check with a coating refresh for a tidy flat fee.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a headlight sealant — who the HeadlightCoating pays off for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC HeadlightCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e is aimed at two groups: professional detailers who want to offer their customers durable protection after a headlight restoration, and committed hobby detailers who want to protect their own headlights for good after polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the \u003cstrong\u003edetailing business\u003c\/strong\u003e the product is especially appealing: the portioned sachets kill off dosing errors and wasted material. Ten sachets in a set mean 20 car applications — at a predictable material price per car. Compared with wrapping, the coating saves a lot of time and lowers the bar for offering headlight restoration as an add-on. It works brilliantly as an upsell after a standard detail too: polishing headlights takes 15 minutes, laying the coating down another 5 — the extra effort is minimal, the customer benefit visible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003eprivate users\u003c\/strong\u003e the coating pays off above all on cars that sit outdoors for good and whose headlights already show the first signs of haze. Pair the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e for the restoration with the HeadlightCoating for long-term protection — and you've got a workflow that keeps your headlights clear for the next 12 months. With a yearly refresh the clarity stays at new-car level, without you ever having to sand aggressively again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a complement to the rest of the SONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating range, the HeadlightCoating slots seamlessly into a complete concept: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-one-paint-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eCeramicCoating CC One for the paint\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-plastic-rubber-kunststoffversiegelung\"\u003eCC Plastic+Rubber for plastic parts\u003c\/a\u003e and HeadlightCoating for the headlights — so the whole car gets a single, uniform ceramic protective layer. Anyone offering a customer a full ceramic seal shouldn't forget the headlights — they're often the first thing that gives away the age of a used car. A freshly coated headlight can lift the overall impression of a car significantly and is a detail sharp-eyed buyers and inspectors spot straight away — and in the case of the roadworthiness test it can even matter for the result.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"50ml (10x 5ml)","offer_id":53521296490831,"sku":"D1-SNX-2765410","price":21.52,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-headlightcoating-scheinwerferversiegelung_50ml.png?v=1730655825"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-vinyl-ppf-folienversiegelung","title":"PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" Vinyl+PPF Film Sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003eLock in colour wraps and paint protection film for good with SONAX CeramicCoating CC Vinyl+PPF\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX CeramicCoating CC Vinyl+PPF do? It's a single-layer ceramic sealant on a Si-Carbon base that protects colour wraps and paint protection film (PPF) for up to 18 months — it deepens the colour, sheds water and dirt, and leaves the gloss or matte look of the film exactly as it was.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWrapped cars — whether it's a colour wrap for a custom look or paint protection film (PPF) against stone chips — ask for a different kind of care. Standard paint sealants and waxes simply aren't made for film: they can leave residue, shift the matte look, or attack the wrap itself. At the same time, film needs protecting: UV light slowly fades colour wraps, and on PPF, dirt and water spots settle in and undermine the self-healing effect. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Vinyl+PPF\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly this — a single-layer ceramic sealant on a Si-Carbon base that bonds flexibly with the film surface and shields it from the elements for up to 18 months, without touching the way the film looks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProtection that leaves the film's character alone.\u003c\/strong\u003e The coating deepens the existing colour on both gloss and matte wraps, but it doesn't change the gloss level or the texture. A matte wrap stays matte, a gloss wrap stays gloss. That matters, because plenty of standard sealants throw an unwanted shine onto matte film and ruin the whole look of the car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSerious water and dirt repellency.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Si-Carbon layer makes the film surface strongly hydrophobic. Water beads off in clean droplets and takes the dirt with it — the classic self-cleaning effect. On PPF there's a bonus: less dirt clinging on means less aggressive washing, which stretches the life of the film.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA soft finish you can feel.\u003c\/strong\u003e Once it's cured, the film surface feels noticeably smoother and softer. The coating fills the microscopic dips in the film's structure and leaves a silky-smooth feel you'll pick up the moment you start washing by hand — the wash mitt glides across the panel with barely any drag.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e With matte wraps the prep is what makes or breaks it: use SONAX PROFILINE Prepare and nothing else to degrease — keep alcohol-based cleaners and silicone removers away, they can wreck the matte look. Lay the coating down in a cross pattern (horizontal first, then vertical) and work in sections no bigger than 0.5 square metres. That's how you avoid streaks and build an even layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon sealant for film — why a normal coating doesn't work on a wrap\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Vinyl+PPF\u003c\/strong\u003e sealant solves a basic problem: standard ceramic coatings made for paint are rigid and hard — perfect on the stable base of a clearcoat. Film is a different animal. It's flexible, it expands when temperatures swing, it stretches over three-dimensional body panels, and its surface structure is nothing like paint. A paint coating on film would crack early, cure unevenly and — especially on matte wraps — throw up an unwanted shine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's why SONAX tuned the Si-Carbon formula in the Vinyl+PPF specifically for flexibility and adhesion to film. The silicon-carbon compounds cross-link on the wrap into an elastic matrix that moves with the film without cracking. At the same time the layer is thin enough to leave the film's optics untouched — a key point detailers often miss when choosing a film sealant. Nothing's more annoying than a matte wrap that suddenly shines in patches after sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo what's going on at the molecular level? The Si-Carbon compounds react with the humidity in the air and, during the cure, build a three-dimensional network of silicon-oxygen bridges with carbon chains woven in. Those carbon chains are the real difference from pure SiO₂ coatings: they give the layer a bit of give, which would be pointless on rigid paint but on a flexible wrap is the difference between a sealant that lasts and one that flakes off after a few weeks. Day-to-day you see this most at the edges and seams, where film sits under tension — exactly the spots where ordinary coatings let go first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat up-to-18-months figure comes with conditions: regular care with pH-neutral cleaners, no alkaline pre-cleaners straight onto the film, and a clean first application on a perfectly prepped surface. Under realistic everyday conditions — a mix of garage and street parking, a weekly hand wash — twelve to fifteen months is an honest expectation. That's still several times what spray sealants manage on film, which typically tail off after two to four weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing a lot of wrap owners don't think about: without a sealant, minerals in the water settle on PPF and bake into the soft film surface — showing up as stubborn water spots that won't just wash off. The coating builds a barrier that keeps minerals from touching the film directly. For plenty of PPF owners that water-spot protection alone justifies a film sealant. Anyone who's ever tried to pull baked-in lime spots off unprotected PPF — with a dedicated water-spot remover and a lot of patience — knows how much easier it is to stop the problem before it starts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to apply a film sealant properly — prep and application on vinyl and PPF\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the \u003cstrong\u003efilm sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e differs from a paint sealant in one key way: film is more sensitive to pressure and harsh cleaners. So every step asks for a slightly lighter touch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStart with a \u003cstrong\u003ethorough wash\u003c\/strong\u003e of the whole car. After that, the film surfaces need degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e. Spray Prepare onto a soft microfibre cloth — not straight onto the film — and wipe the surface in straight passes. On matte wraps this step really matters: grease from fingerprints or earlier products gets sealed in under the coating and creates uneven patches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003eapplication\u003c\/strong\u003e, put a few drops of the coating onto the soft side of one of the foam applicator pads included. Spread the product in a cross pattern — horizontal first, then vertical — in sections of around 0.5 square metres. The cross pattern makes sure the coating goes on evenly and you don't get directional streaks. Wipe off any excess straight away with a clean SONAX Coating Towel, streak-free. Don't let it sit too long: on film the coating flashes off faster than on paint, and once it's dried on, residue is harder to shift off film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003ecure\u003c\/strong\u003e needs at least six hours, ideally twelve, in a dry, dust-free spot. The car can't touch water during that time. So plan the job for when the car can sit overnight in a garage. Hold off on the first wash for at least a week, and even then use nothing but pH-neutral shampoo and a soft wash mitt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common first-timer mistake: too much product on the pad. On film, two or three drops cover half a square metre — far less than on paint. Excess coating pulls smears faster on film and, once it's dried on, takes real effort to fix. If in doubt, lay down a second thin layer after 30 minutes rather than risk a first layer that's too thick. Pro wrap installers always work with infrared lamps for a controlled cure — for home use a warm, dry garage at no less than 15 degrees Celsius is plenty. Below ten degrees the cross-linking reaction slows right down and the coating can cure unevenly — so in winter, make sure you've got a heated space.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for \u003cstrong\u003eaftercare\u003c\/strong\u003e: for the first four weeks after application, skip quick sealants, detailer sprays and wax products. The ceramic layer cures on the surface within the first few days, but it doesn't reach full chemical cross-linking until around two to three weeks in. Products laid on the surface during that window can disrupt the cross-linking and cut the lifespan short. Once it's fully cured, though, the coating plays nicely with all the usual pH-neutral care products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGloss wrap, matte wrap and PPF — where the sealant gives you the most\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Vinyl+PPF\u003c\/strong\u003e works on every common type of film, but it pulls off a slightly different trick on each:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003egloss wraps\u003c\/strong\u003e (high-gloss colour change wraps) the coating deepens the colour noticeably. Colours look richer and more alive — like a good wax on paint, only longer-lasting. The hydrophobic effect means the film dries almost spot-free after rain. For cars with bold colours like chrome delete, metallic wraps or colour-shift film, that effect is especially appealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ematte wraps\u003c\/strong\u003e (satin, matte) the main win is protection. Matte film is notoriously fussy to look after: every fingerprint, every water spot shows straight away, and polishing is off the table. The coating builds a protective layer that makes fingerprints cling less and keeps water spots away — without touching the matte character. That's the thing that sets this sealant apart from most of the competition: plenty of coatings throw an unwanted shine onto matte film and wreck the look of the car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003epaint protection film (PPF)\u003c\/strong\u003e the coating guards against yellowing, water spots and dirt clinging on. PPF is a serious investment — a full wrap runs into several thousand euros. The coating protects that investment and extends the life of the film by filtering UV light and shielding the surface from chemical attack. The self-healing effect that many PPF films have stays intact under the coating too, because the ceramic layer also stays flexible when warmth is applied. On PPF up front in particular — bonnet, bumpers, wings — the water-spot protection shows most clearly: these are exactly the panels most exposed to spray off other cars, and without a sealant they're peppered with baked-in lime spots after a few months.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFilm sealant comparison — ceramic coating vs. spray sealant vs. film wax\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen it comes to caring for film, you've got three product categories to choose from: ceramic coatings, spray sealants and dedicated film waxes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpray sealants\u003c\/strong\u003e are the quickest option: spray on, wipe off, done. But the durability on film is only two to four weeks — fine for enthusiasts who wash and re-seal every week anyway, but not for anyone after lasting protection. The upside: it's forgiving to apply and needs no fiddly prep.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFilm waxes\u003c\/strong\u003e give you a bit more durability (four to eight weeks) and good colour depth. On matte wraps, though, handle them with care: not every film wax is matte-safe, and some throw an uneven shine. On top of that, waxes don't form a chemical bond with the film — they just sit on top and get worn away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Vinyl+PPF\u003c\/strong\u003e is the long-game answer: 12 to 18 months of protection, a chemically bonded ceramic layer, matte-safe and with the widest range of uses. The extra time it takes to apply pays off across the whole lifespan — no monthly re-sealing, no regular re-waxing. For cars with quality film, the coating is the logical call to protect that investment for the long haul.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThere's a money side you shouldn't overlook either: anyone applying a spray sealant to the whole wrap every two weeks gets through roughly six to eight bottles a year — and on a full wrap that quickly adds up to a three-figure sum, plus the time each application eats. The ceramic coating costs more up front but saves both product and labour across its whole lifespan. That advantage often gets missed, because the straight price comparison at the till makes the ceramic coating look dearer — but worked out per month, it's the cheapest of the three options.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a film sealant — who the CC Vinyl+PPF is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Vinyl+PPF\u003c\/strong\u003e is aimed at two main groups: professional wrap shops who want to offer their customers quality long-term protection after a wrap, and car owners with an existing wrap who want to protect their investment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003ewrap shops\u003c\/strong\u003e the product is a natural upsell after every job. The effort for the sealing is low — the film is clean and grease-free straight after a fresh install anyway, so prep is minimal. The 50 ml in the set is enough for a complete vehicle wrap, and the four applicator pads are in the box. As an add-on service the sealing builds customer loyalty: the customer comes back for the yearly refresh.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003ehome users\u003c\/strong\u003e with a wrapped car, the coating makes the most sense on matte wraps and full PPF wraps — anywhere the film is a bigger investment and the care is more demanding than on normal paint. Pair the film sealant with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-plastic-rubber-kunststoffversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber for the plastic parts\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-one-paint-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eCC One for the unpainted areas\u003c\/a\u003e — and you've got the whole car covered with one consistent ceramic protection plan.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe set includes the 50 ml bottle, four applicator pads and a SONAX Coating Towel — everything you need for a complete vehicle wrap, with no extra accessories to buy. In practice the 50 ml is enough for a fully wrapped mid-size car. On a partial wrap — say just the bonnet and front end in PPF — you'll have enough product left over for a later refresh or a second car. Store the opened product cool, dark and tightly sealed, and it'll hold its full strength for the next job.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"50ml + 4x applicator pads","offer_id":53521429397839,"sku":"D1-SNX-2790000","price":47.12,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-vinyl-ppf-folienversiegelung_50ml.png?v=1730656788"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-fabriccoating-textilimpragnierung","title":"PROFILINE FabricCoating fabric impregnation","description":"\u003ch2\u003eProtection for fabric, cloth and soft tops — SONAX PROFILINE FabricCoating\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat do you use a professional fabric impregnation for? The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FabricCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e is a spray-on fabric impregnation for inside and out — it gives soft tops, cloth seats, carpets and fabric trim lasting protection against water, dirt and stains thanks to a water-repellent barrier.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFabric surfaces in a car take a constant beating: a cloth soft top gets hit by rain, UV and bird droppings; cloth seats and carpets soak up moisture that breeds mould and brings on odours; velour headliners and trim drink up stains that are a pain to get back out without protection. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FabricCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e protects all of these fabric surfaces with a lasting impregnation: once it has dried, the product forms a water- and dirt-repellent layer that makes water bead off and stops liquids and dirt particles from working their way into the fibres. It comes in a 1-litre format for professional use in detailing shops and on convertibles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWater-repellent impregnation for soft tops, seats and fabric trim.\u003c\/strong\u003e Once you lay it down, the PROFILINE FabricCoating wraps each fibre in a hydrophobic layer. That fibre-protection effect makes water roll off the surface as beads instead of soaking into the fibres. It stops the fabric from getting waterlogged in the rain, protects the backing from moisture damage and makes cleaning a lot easier: dirt grips less on impregnated fabric and wipes or vacuums off more readily.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFor inside and out — one product for every car fabric.\u003c\/strong\u003e The FabricCoating works on every fabric surface in and on the car: cotton or polyester soft tops, Alcantara seat panels, velour carpets, fabric headliners, cloth door trim and convertible window cords. That inside-and-out flexibility saves you time and product: instead of two different products for interior and exterior, you only need the FabricCoating for every fabric area of a car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePro 1-litre format for convertible specialists and detailers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 1-litre format of the PROFILINE FabricCoating is built for regular use in shops that work on convertibles a lot or do plenty of fabric jobs. Compared with consumer 250 ml or 500 ml bottles, the price per litre in the 1-litre pro container is a lot better. You can decant the product straight into a spray bottle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e With the PROFILINE FabricCoating, the prep makes or breaks the result: a fabric impregnation only works on clean, grease-free fabric — on greasy or dirty cloth it never builds a complete protective layer. Clean the soft top first with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-all-purpose-cleaner-foam-universalreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE All-Purpose-Cleaner \"Foam\"\u003c\/a\u003e, rinse it thoroughly and let it dry completely, then spray the FabricCoating on. Let the top rest for 24 hours to dry in a horizontal position (top closed) — that way the impregnation works its way into every part of the fibres, including the inward-facing fibres under the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow the PROFILINE FabricCoating is formulated — fibre impregnation and hydrophobic effect\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003ePROFILINE FabricCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e formula is built on fluorocarbon-free impregnation technology: the active substances work their way into the fabric structure and settle on each individual fibre. The result is a fibre coating that repels water without changing the texture or the hand of the cloth. Unlike older PFC-based impregnations (perfluorocarbons), the PROFILINE formula is developed without these persistent environmental chemicals — a quality mark that matters more and more in professional work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe hydrophobic effect of the impregnation comes down to the lotus principle: the fibre coating lowers the surface energy of the fabric, so water can no longer get a grip on the fibre and sits on the surface as droplets instead of spreading through the fibre structure. As long as the protective layer is intact, rain runs off the soft top without soaking the backing. The layer itself is breathable: it keeps water out from the outside but lets moisture vapour pass through from the inside — which matters on convertibles, to avoid condensation building up under the top.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne technical edge of modern fibre impregnation over old wax and silicone impregnations is that it keeps the fabric breathable. Old impregnations sealed the fabric pores completely — which kept water out, but also blocked moisture vapour from the inside. That led to condensation under the soft top and unpleasant damp problems in the cabin. The fibre impregnation in the PROFILINE FabricCoating protects each individual fibre but leaves the pores between the fibres open — water vapour can escape, while liquid water from outside still can't get in. You know this principle from quality outdoor clothing, and it works just as well on car fabrics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow long the impregnation lasts depends on how much mechanical wear it takes. On convertibles that get driven in the rain a lot and run through car washes, the impregnation needs redoing more often than on cars that rarely come out. As a rough guide: when water no longer clearly beads off the top but spreads into flat puddles, it's time to re-impregnate. Depending on use, that point can come after about 3–6 months, or only after well over a year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the FabricCoating — cleaning, application and drying time\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the PROFILINE FabricCoating follows a clear three-step process: clean — impregnate — dry. The cleaning step is the most important one: the fabric has to be free of dirt, grease, old impregnation residue and care products. On dirty fabric the FabricCoating won't build an even protective layer; on greasy fabric (for example after a silicone dressing has been used) the impregnation can't bond at all. A thorough clean with a fabric cleaner and a full dry before you impregnate is non-negotiable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplication: decant the FabricCoating into a spray bottle (or use a suitable spray head straight from the container) and spray it evenly onto the dry fabric surface. The fabric should be fully wetted but not dripping wet — a light, even mist is enough. On textured top fabric, watch for good coverage down into the dips of the weave. Don't rub or spread it after you've applied it — the impregnation soaks into the fibres on its own.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrying time: the treated fabric should dry for at least 4–6 hours at room temperature before it sees any water. For convertibles, dry it with the top closed on a warm, dry day. Full curing and cross-linking takes 24 hours — only then does the impregnation reach its peak hydrophobic effect. If you drive the car in the rain after just 6 hours, you'll get noticeably worse water repellency than if you'd given it the full cure time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that turn around a lot of cars a week, a standardised workflow for fabric impregnation pays off: clean the fabric and let it dry for at least 2 hours, then spray the FabricCoating on evenly and let it dry for another 24 hours. In practice that means you apply the impregnation at the end of a detailing day and leave the car overnight — by the next morning the drying is done and the car is ready to hand over. This flow slots neatly into a working day without creating dead time that drags productivity down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere to use it — soft tops, Alcantara, velour and fabric interiors\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe soft top is where the FabricCoating really earns its keep: cotton or synthetic soft tops sit out in the rain, dirt and UV without protection and degrade over time. A well-kept, regularly impregnated soft top stays in good shape for years; a neglected top is prone to mould, fades and loses its waterproofing. The FabricCoating is the tool for preventive top care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor classic and youngtimer convertibles with original cotton tops, the FabricCoating is especially worthwhile: older cotton tops are more prone to mould and colour loss than modern synthetic ones. Regular impregnation slows the weathering down considerably and extends the life of the original top — which, on classics where replacement tops are rare and pricey, means real value retention. If you're re-impregnating a cotton classic-car top, make sure it's fully dry and clean before you treat it — any damp or mouldy spots need treating with a suitable anti-fungal product first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInside the car, the FabricCoating protects Alcantara seat covers, velour carpets and fabric trim from stains caused by drinks, dirt and body oils. Impregnated Alcantara is easier to clean when it gets stained, because the liquid isn't pulled straight into the fibres. For cars with high-quality fabric trim — youngtimers, luxury cars, cars with special-order interiors — regular fabric impregnation is an important way to keep the value up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePROFILINE FabricCoating compared — fabric protection in the SONAX PROFILINE range\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the PROFILINE range, the FabricCoating is the specialist for fabric surfaces. For the pre-clean before impregnating, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/a\u003e is a good fit — a mild, eco-certified interior cleaner that cleans fabrics without aggressive solvents and leaves no residue that could throw off the impregnation that follows. For tougher dirt on soft tops or heavy fabric soiling, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-innenreiniger-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE InnenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e is the stronger pre-clean option.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FabricCoating isn't an all-purpose sealant — it's developed specifically for fabric surfaces and shouldn't go on paint, plastic or glass. It isn't suited to faux leather or real leather either: leather surfaces need a leather-specific care product that feeds the leather structure and protects it at the same time. If you've got both fabric and leather in the car, you need both product types separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE FabricCoating — for convertible care, interiors and fabric protection\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe PROFILINE FabricCoating in the 1-litre format is aimed at detailing shops and detailers who regularly work on convertibles or do extensive fabric impregnation. A single car interior often only needs 100–200 ml; the 1-litre format therefore covers 5–10 full car treatments from one container — economical for shops with several fabric-protection jobs a month.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou get the best results with a steady care routine: clean and re-impregnate twice a year — once in spring before the convertible season, once in autumn before winter storage. That keeps the soft top protected the whole time, and the effort for yearly care stays manageable. Shops that offer convertible care as a seasonal service can add the FabricCoating as a fixed service product to their line-up and keep the 1-litre format on hand as a stock for the whole season.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57344966721871,"sku":"D1-SNX-3103000","price":31.03,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-fabriccoating_1liter.png?v=1774730636"}],"url":"https:\/\/detailing1depot.com\/en\/collections\/sonax-spezialversiegelung.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}