Dr. Wack "A1" A1 "Power Foam Shampoo" Snow Foam 90ml

A1 Power Foam Shampoo lifts the dirt before swirls happen

What is the A1 Power Foam Shampoo? A foam shampoo from Dr. Wack for foam lance, pump sprayer and bucket, one step above neutral at pH 8, that leaves wax and sealant where they are. Not a degreaser ahead of a ceramic coating, and not a budget concentrate for a quick bucket wash.

A1 Power Foam Shampoo is a foam shampoo from Dr. Wack that softens the dirt in the foam and carries it away before any tool touches the panel. The anionic surfactants drop the surface tension of the water far enough that the film creeps under the loose grit instead of over it. For you that means the dirt floats up and runs off with the foam, instead of working as grinding paste under your wash mitt.

That is where most swirls come from — not from polishing, but from the first two minutes of the wash. A grain of sand still sitting on the paint when the mitt first lands drags its line the whole length of the pass. The foam pre-wash is the step that takes that grain off without moving it.

Dr. Wack calls the technique behind it micro-mechanical foam: as the bubbles collapse they keep changing size, and that movement works the film out of the surface. Getting that balance right is lab work — a foam that clings to vertical metal for two to three minutes and still sits at pH 8. Dr. Wack developed it in Baar-Ebenhausen.

In the AUTO BILD test of 7 May 2026 that was enough to lead a field of eight snow foam shampoos: grade 1.2, 189 out of 200 points, 95 per cent cleaning performance on every test panel. What they checked was not only what comes off, but what stays — paint, the ABS plastic on the bumpers and the polycarbonate on the headlight covers. The one that came last in the same test attacked ABS. Here all three materials came through untouched.

• One bottle, three tools. Foam lance on the pressure washer, pump foam sprayer, bucket — the dosing changes, the product does not. The cap holds 30 ml and doubles as your measure, so you need no second scale and no kitchen balance.
• pH 8 leaves your protection alone. The figure sits one step above the neutral point of 7 and a long way from the strongly alkaline pre-cleaners that strip wax and sealant along with the dirt. Dr. Wack states outright that the product is wax-safe. In practice: you foam over a three-month-old spray sealant without giving it up.
• Approved all the way to matt paint. Three paint types, two wrap types and every paint condition from as-new to heavily weathered are on the approval list. On twelve-year-old weathered paint you run the same dosing as on the wrapped lease return.

Detailing1's tip from the shop: We see the lance dosing carried straight over to the pump sprayer a lot — concentrate in, water on top, and the foam collapses on itself right away. Neat, the product belongs only in the reservoir of the foam lance, because the high-pressure jet dilutes it there for you. In the sprayer you mix 1.5 to 2 caps into 1 litre of water, so 45 to 60 ml. Below that the foam stops carrying the dirt, it just runs off.

The foam lance gets it neat, the bucket gets three caps

Three routes, three doses: neat into the reservoir of the foam lance, 1.5 to 2 caps per 1 litre in the pump sprayer, 2 to 3 caps per 5 litres in the bucket.

Once it is on, 2 to 3 minutes run. In that time the road film softens, the bubbles travel downwards and take the loose grit with them. Then you rinse thoroughly with clean water, top down, until no foam is left standing in the panel gaps.

The order around the car matters more than most people think. Start low at the sills and wheel arches where the heavy dirt sits, and work your way up. The foam runs downwards anyway, so it lays itself over the dirtiest panels a second time. Rinsing goes the other way, from the top — otherwise dirty water tracks over panels you have already cleaned.

Two conditions decide the result, and neither has anything to do with dosing. First the sun: if the foam dries on, what you have instead of a pre-wash is a layer of surfactant residue that wants washing off as well. Second the panel temperature — a car that has just run for two hours boils your dwell time away. Fifteen minutes cooling down in the shade is cheaper than a second pass.

If you have no foam lance on a pressure washer, a pump foam sprayer gets you to a comparable foam density. The difference is arm work: you pump it back up before each section of the car, but you need no power and no water connection. For a single car that is no drawback, for three back to back it is.

One thing stands out about the AUTO BILD method: they rinsed off with no mechanical help at all, three minutes, nothing more. So the 95 per cent stands for pure chemistry on a test panel. On a real car with edges, swage lines and rubber seals, that is the groundwork, not the whole wash — the rest comes from the two-bucket wash, and on paint the heavy dirt has already come off.

The Power Foam Shampoo is not a budget concentrate

In the pump sprayer 45 to 60 ml go into a litre of water — so a one-litre bottle gives you around 16 to 22 fills, and no more.

The bucket works out much the same: 2 to 3 caps in 5 litres is roughly 1:60 to 1:80. For comparison, the A1 Speed Shampoo from the same line runs half a cap in 10 litres, so about 1:400. That is five to seven times the consumption for the same bucket.

That figure is no weakness in the formula, it is a design decision. A foam meant to stand on vertical metal for two to three minutes needs surfactant volume — otherwise it collapses before it works. If you own a foam lance or a sprayer, this is exactly the right grab. If you simply take a bucket and a mitt, the hand wash concentrate is the thriftier choice for the same job.

The second limit hides inside one of its own selling points. Because the shampoo leaves wax and sealant layers standing, it is no good as preparation before a ceramic coating. If you want to coat, you need a degreaser afterwards that takes off exactly what is deliberately left here. For a maintenance wash that is the advantage, for a coating build it is one more step.

The third expectation comes from the internet: the product gets pushed as a way to skip the hand wash altogether. For a light layer of dust after a dry week, that holds. As soon as road film, bug splatter or brake dust are in play, no foam takes it all off touch-free — it reduces what the mitt then pushes across the panel.

And the fourth: in that same AUTO BILD test a much cheaper concentrate took the value-for-money rating. Work out the price per litre of ready-to-use wash solution on its own and you will find cheaper — but you buy worse material compatibility or lower cleaning performance with it. Which of those matters more to you is your call, not the test field's.

If you own a foam lance, this is where you get the most out of it

The A1 Power Foam Shampoo pays off when a pressure washer with a foam lance or a pump sprayer is already standing there and the pre-wash is a fixed part of your routine.

Who it is not for: if you wash your car four times a year with a bucket and a sponge, you are paying here for foam technology you will never use. And if you run through the automatic wash regularly and only wipe down at home, you need no pre-wash foam — a quick detailer is the better grab there.

Two bottle sizes are on offer, and they mean two different users. The 1,000 ml bottle is the working size for the season you are in. The 90 ml bottle holds exactly three caps — that is precisely one bucket wash, or one and a half to two sprayer fills. As a try-out size before you commit to a litre, that is more honest than any product description.

If you are still choosing between foams, a look at the spread helps: in the Snow Foam category, strongly alkaline pre-cleaners sit next to pH-mild shampoos. The alkaline ones pull off more oil and more bugs, but they go at wax and sealant. This one is the other side of that trade-off — and therefore no substitute for a heavy-duty cleaner after winter.

The tip that is in no set of instructions: dose the sprayer by the water temperature, not by the car. Cold water dissolves the surfactants more slowly, the foam comes out thinner and slides off faster — so you go to the full dose of 2 caps. In summer 1.5 is enough, and you win back the time that foam drying in the sun would otherwise cost you.

The concentrate itself takes cold badly. The freezing point is 0 °C, and a single frosty night on an unheated shelf costs you the bottle. So cool and dry expressly does not mean cold with this product — and keep it apart from oxidising agents, which on the shelf simply means: not right next to bleach or a chlorine cleaner.

Using the A1 Power Foam Shampoo

Foam first, mitt second

Rinse the car down roughly first so loose sand and road grit are not already under the bubbles when you foam. You do not work on hot metal or in direct sun — the foam dries on there before it has broken the film loose.

On the foam lance at the pressure washer you fill the concentrate neat into the reservoir and the jet takes care of the dilution. In the pump foam sprayer you mix 1.5 to 2 caps into 1 litre of water, one cap holds 30 ml. For a hand wash in the bucket, 2 to 3 caps go into 5 litres, foamed up hard.

Foam from the bottom up and start at the sills and wheel arches. After 2 to 3 minutes of dwell time you rinse the other way round, top down, until no foam is left standing in panel gaps and seals.

After that comes the two-bucket wash with a wash mitt, on paint the heavy grit has already come off. For the tight spots around grilles and trim strips, a soft brush helps you work the foam in rather than carrying it there with the mitt.

Notes: The shampoo removes no wax or sealant layers — that is the point on a maintenance wash, but it makes it useless as preparation before a ceramic coating; for that you need a degreaser afterwards. With cold tap water the surfactants dissolve more slowly, so go to the full dose of 2 caps per litre. Store cool, dry and tightly closed, and apart from oxidising agents; the freezing point is 0 °C and one frosty night ruins the bottle. Approved are metallic, solid and matt paint, paint conditions from as-new to heavily weathered, and matt and gloss wrap.